RTW with Mike

Friday, August 25, 2006

Six months in a leaky boat...

Conway's faves!

It's been an age, not helped by my pc deciding that it had enjoyed it's 6 month break so much, that it fancied some more time off...

Anyway, here I will go though my RTW highlights, give a few thank yous, and decide on THE HIGHLIGHT OF MY TRIP!

Incidentally, if you wish to revisit my inane ramblings, they're stored on a Blog
http://mikeconwayrtw.blogspot.com/
My photos are still there too
http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mfconway@btinternet.com/my_photos

First, the many highlights! In no particular order...

Best beach
I didn't spend must time by the sea (not visiting a single Thai island was a bit careless!) but my faves were
Miami South Beach - a great place to ease off jetlag, with it's stylish Art Deco architecture, relaxed prosperity and massive sandy beach
Lake McKensie on Fraser island in Aus - paradise on earth, though a nightmare to get to!

Most fun place
The type of place where people go to enjoy themselves, and everything is geared around this
Queenstown NZ - adventure capital of the world (I was mainly happy to watch!)
Las Vegas - it's brash, it's tacky, it's OTT. It's amazing!

Best train journey
Karunda scenic railway Aus - great scenery and a decent destination too
Death Railway Thailand - the scenery, the Bridge over the River Kwai tempered with the thought of all those who suffered terribly in it's construction and fill the cemeteries of Kanchanaburi...
Swiss railways - Switzerland wins the prize for the best rail network on my journey, as clean, comfortable, efficient and punctual as you'd expect

Best cablecar/ funicular
Kuranda skyrail - 'flying' high over tropical rainforest, what a view!
Scenicworld, Blue Mountains Aus - the unbelievably steep former coal railway down with modern cablecar up, great scenery
Mount Pilatus round trip - Switzerland in a nutshell, cable car up, funicular down with a lovely lake cruise back to Lucerne to finish

Best road journey
I'm tempted to say the whole of New Zealand, as I enjoyed virtually all of my driving there. The best drive though was probably the road to Milford Sound, for it's sheer variety, the fields, forests, mountains with mad tunnel and snow blizzard at the top!

Most scenic flight
Helicopter flight, Franz Josef glacier NZ - stunning views of the glaciers, then landing and walking on one
Helicopter flight, 12 Apostles Aus - the best way to appreciate the scenery, and good value too
Zurich to Venice - Flying over the Alps, giving stunning views

Best looking air hostesses
Flight scenery of a different type! Difficult one to decide this, on balance Singapore Girl (from last year) still has it.
As I like to cater for all tastes in my readers, I should mention that the best looking male cabin steward was on a Qantas flight from Brisbane to Sydney - I judged this by the amount of female rubber necking going on (even more than when I walked past!). I ought to point out though, that on one of my trips I met a gay couple who were both Qantas cabin stewards, so ladies I wouldn't get your hopes up too much!

Best Airline
Air Asia - an Asian low cost carrier provided some bargain price fares, and many very convenient connections, saving a lot of time and money

Best boat trip
Borneo longboats - you feel like a real adventurer in one, as you whizz through the jungle!
Grand canal Venice - however many times to travel along it, it's still very special

Best beer
A difficult one this, I'd probably say Sierra Nevada Pale Ale (I drank this in LA). Some of the beers in Asia were decent too, Coopers was the best Aussie one, indeed I'm drinking a bottle now (and not a silly stubby either!)

Best wine
The Aussies win this one though, why can't their beer have as much flavour? Honourable mention goes to Waiheke Island, off Auckland, a very pleasant daytrip, and blessed with a similar soil and climate to the Bordeaux region, and hence producing very palatable (if pricey) 'clarets', a wine tour here is recommended!

Best tourist information service
New Zealand - efficient and helpful everywhere with a very useful accommodation booking service

Unexpectedly good museums
Cat museum Kuching Sarawak, Malaysian Borneo - a real labour of (moggie) love!
Te Puke Auto Museum NZ - a great selection of British cars and a massive collection of magazines and brochures to browse through!

Best walks
Queen Charlotte Track NZ - my only trek, four days of attractive scenery, great weather, proper accommodation (with food and drink) and a few steep hills (great for strengthening those thighs!)
Blue Mountains Aus - lots of stunning walks, all within short distance of Sydney

Sporting highlight
Commonwealth Games, Melbourne - Melbourne during the games had a really nice atmosphere. There was always an event going on, and watching the athletics with 90000 other people in the MCG was very special
Rugby in Christchurch NZ, Aussie Rules in Adelaide - watching local sport is a fine way to get to know a country better...and a good excuse to watch sport!
Charlton vs Blackburn - Alan Curbishley's shock last game in charge, I wish I had been there to show my appreciation, but catching it on tv in Singapore was a real bonus.

Best multi day tour
I mostly travelled independently, but in Aus went on a few organised tours as well. My favourite of these was the 3 night Great Ocean road trip (Melbourne to Adelaide) run by Wayward. A good group of people, lots to see, plenty of laughs and the final night bbq, with my aubergine slices cooked in the fat left from cheap burgers! (as it was dark we couldn't see the thousands of millipedes everywhere, and hence squashed hundreds)

Best zoo, wildlife park, aquarium etc
Sydney Aquarium - brilliant displays and tanks, the best aquarium I visited on this trip
Aussie wildlife parks - so many to choose from, Tower Hill (between Melbourne and Adelaide), Alice Springs and Darwin all have a fascinating selection of indigenous animals

Favourite plants, flowers, etc
Kauri Trees NZ - massive, majestic trees, enough to turn anyone into a tree hugger (though you'd have to be stretch armstrong to reach around!)
Singapore orchid gardens - an old favourite, but still beautiful

Favourite animals
Glowworms - ok, not exactly cuddly, but gliding through dark NZ caves lit only by their magical luminescence was very memorable, and indeed quite magical. Take the Spellbound trip in Waikomo, you won't regret it.
Kangaroos, Koalas - has any country got such cute national symbols?

Best exposure to Native culture
Waka Boat trip NZ - Mauri Culture brought to life, and paddling the boat was good fun too!
Iban Long House, Sarawak, Borneo - a chance to see an exotic culture, one which is rapidly vanishing as their society 'modernises'

Most fun accommodation
Iban Long House, Borneo - we were in a special tourist block, but it was still a long house and very exciting, sitting on the veranda and watching the sun go down was very special
Mulu national park, Sarawak, Borneo - a real feeling of being in the wilderness, thick forest around you, and the incessant jungle noises. Luckily the frogs didn't croak all night!
Swagging in the Aussie outback - yes it was uncomfortable, yes it was freezing as the temperature dropped and wind picked up, but a very memorable experience!

Isn't planet earth amazing!
Rotorua NZ - extraordinary natural geothermal scenery, bubbling mud pools, geysers, silica terraces, piles of steaming sulphur, the terrible smell everywhere and the natural mineral baths to relax in afterwards...
Giant caves of Mulu NP, Sarawak Borneo - gigantic caves, stunning formations, millions of bats who fly out in vast swarms, piles of, ahem guano, with that pungent ammonia smell...

Favourite religious buildings
These were in Asia, as Kiwis worship the All Blacks and Aussies worship themselves! Brunei has stunning mosques, as money was no object in their construction, while Thailand and Lao have attractive Buddhist temples, and especially in Thailand, the genuine devotion of the worshippers is moving. Penang's (Malaysia) Kek Lok Si temple is a great tourist site, and really interesting, but perhaps a little bit too OTT and commercial...

Favourite historical buildings
No contest here, the vast 1000 year old temple complexes around Siem Riep in Cambodia are stunning, the highlight being Angkor Wat, one of the great historical buildings of the world. It's worth having a guide to fill you in, on all the mysterious detail, and carvings, but also worth wandering around by yourself, to soak up the atmosphere.

Favourite wilderness
Badwater, Death Valley (US), 86m below sea level. Flat, deathly silent apart from the crunch of footsteps over the salt flat.
So many parts of NZ, but picking out one, the Caitlins, the very bottom part of the South Island, the walk across the boggy and ahem 'fertilised' farmer's field leading to Slope Point, the most southerly place I'd ever been to, and undoubtedly the windiest!

Unexpectedly likeable places
Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysian Borneo - off the standard backpacker trail, but well worth a visit as an interesting place, and a great base to see the jungle and longhouses.
Las Vegas - far nicer than I expected, Las Vegas is a must visit destination, even if you don't spend a cent in the casinos! The stunning (if OTT) architecture of the casinos and malls plus the (relative) proximity to the Grand Canyon and Death Valley make this a great holiday destination for a few days. Just go midweek; at the weekend the hotel rates are sky high, whereas midweek they give rooms away.
Dunedin NZ - I could have picked out several NZ places, but Dunedin caters for all tastes, with lots of nature on it's doorstep (albatross and penguin colonies), brewery and chocolate (Cadbury) tours plus a decent scenic train ride, plenty to keep you occupied!
Vientiane Lao - the most peaceful capital city I've ever visited, the people may be very poor, but there is a really nice atmosphere here, like Thailand 20 years ago, I imagine. Very cheap beer and some surprisingly good, and excellent value, restaurants too.

Favourite country to visit
Pass!
I would add though, that while NZ was the nicest country I stayed in, Australia probably produced more highlights, and Borneo was also very memorable...

Many Thanks

Many thanks to everyone who helped me on my travels, who put me up, showed me around or fed me, it's much appreciated.
Special thanks to my parents, who looked after my flat while I toured around, and stepped in when things didn't go to plan, I'll be forever grateful.

Six months in a leaky boat
As I travelled, I thought about a song to sum up my trip. A few came to mind - Flying (by Cast), Roam (by The B52s), but nothing worked as well as the Antipodean classic Six months in a leaky boat by the Kiwi (with a bit of Aussie help) band Split Enz (younger Finn brother Neil would go on to form Crowded House), telling the tale of the pioneer explorers who first emigrated to NZ. This classic song, which I heard several times down under and lodged into my brain, never became a hit in the UK, as it came out in 1982 at the time of the Falklands war and was banned by the BBC in case it affected war morale!!! The video is interesting too (very long intro...)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Yav3C4nKAY

The overall highlight of my trip!!!
It was a difficult choice, but the overall highlight out of many great moments and experiences was the Queen Charlotte Track in New Zealand, the 4 day walk.

On trips like this, it can get a bit passive at times; you pay money, and 'the happy natives' do things for you, such is the power of tourism. Hence, it's nice to put in a bit of physical exertion as well, to earn your supper, so to speak. So why was this walk good?

Great scenery, albeit other walks in NZ have even better scenery
Your luggage is carried on by boat, none of that lugging around your possessions mularkey.
Proper accommodation on the way, hotels and hostels so you can sleep in a proper bed, and not have to put up tents etc
You can get food and drink as well, after a long day's walk, there's nothing better than a beer, shower and nice carb rich meal!
The accommodation has beautiful surroundings - completely isolated, with dark forest on one side and the beautiful Queen Charlotte Sound on the other, with it's lapping water full of fish (I spotted a Stingray one morning)
Enough hills to give your body a much needed workout, that's probably the fittest I've ever been! (sadly all gone to pot now)
Some really inspiring people (3 women twice my age who completed the walk with a constant smile on their faces) plus unfit people doing small, easy sections of the route, and struggling badly to make you feel very smug as you whizz past them!

And finally...

A brilliant experience, I would heartily recommend anyone taking time out to travel around the world. Make sure you do what YOU want to do, and you'll have a wonderful time, educational, exciting, fun and moving. Writing this email has brought back all the memories

Mike

Sunday, July 30, 2006

Grumpy Young(ish) Man...

Well, it's all over now sadly, so time to sum up. I've also started making a Rough Guide (good title that!) to RTW trips, but as it was turning into a major tome, I've parked it for the minute!

First of all, what didn't I enjoy??? (the positive, happy bunny email will follow...)

Conway's dislikes

Immigration controls

On a 6 month trip, you cross a lot of borders, nearly all of which require (outside of Europe) require you to fill in a form, with lots of irritating questions...

Race
This was asked by Brunei, Lao and Cambodia. Why? The standard smartalec response back in South African apartheid days was 'human', though I was more tempted by the slightly surreal '110m hurdles'...

Occupation
a) Why does this matter?
b) Who checks what you say anyway!
For ease of passage, I stated 'accountant' rather than 'unemployed travel bum', but if I had stated 'marxist freedom fighter', 'anti government journalist' or 'pimp' would I have been allowed in?

Employer
Not having a current employer, I stated Vantis. The idea that immigration control would phone up Vantis checking my records is laughable, but then I knew that HR would pretend for me. Well probably (and after a bribe or two)

Address in that country
Um, quite often I hadn't pre booked, so I just quoted where I might stay...anyway, as I would then be travelling around the country, I wouldn't be there anyway!

Sarawak
Part of Malaysia, but not for immigration control purposes! Having two active stamps for one country struck me as a bit silly!

Day trips
If only all border guards were as understanding as those on one of the Malaysia Thailand borders, where men crossing for a bit of, ahem, pleasure with ladies of the night are waved through with no passport stamps (to stop wives and partners finding out!)

Countries using the US$

It's bad enough trying to work out one foreign currency, but when a country (like Lao or Cambodia) uses several it gets very confusing! Having to use US$ for major expenses in Lao and Cambodia (such as hotels and visas) meant trawling around bureau de change in Thailand looking for one with a decent supply of dollar bills!

Asian Traffic

Manic motorbikes, scary bus drivers, non existant pavements, pollution, noise...

Aussie outback flies!

As annoying as everyone says they are...it's as if an Australian pied piper led all the continent's flies to the deserted centre of the country and left them there!

Logging

Mass logging is still going on in many countries, will they learn before it's too late?

Travelling to Fraser island from Brisbane

4 hours each way, sitting sideways in the back of a wallowy military style Land Cruiser. Agony!

New Zealand TV

Pretty poor really, Channel 1 news is as hard hitting and international as East Anglia today...(Australia's ABC news is a lot better) a distinct lack of home produced drama too (so they watch Coronation Street instead...)

The Ghan

So much of Australia's countryside, frankly, is really boring. A long overnight train trip like the Ghan across the outback sounded really interesting, but in practice, after a few hours of staring out at the same thorny scrub and bushes, that nice short airpane flight alternative becomes really tempting...the seats are poorly designed too, no foot room, and an annoying foot rest that gets in the way (my one was broken so they had to tie it up with string!)

Great Barrier Reef

Unless you're comfortable in water (and believe me being in the middle of an ocean, several miles from land is a lot different than the local swimming pool), stick to Australia's excellent acquariums, where you can watch the exotic fish close up without getting seasick or doing the yard of seawater!

Cambodian TV World Cup coverage

Putting adverts on during 'pauses' e.g. corners, injuries, but not short adverts you can cut back from but nice long, full length ones so you keep missing play!!! Perhaps that's why there were so many feigned injuries, they were so Camdodian tv could run a toothpaste advert for the 20th time that game.

Most annoying cancellation

The cancellation of my helicopter flight over the Grand Canyon, due to lack of numbers - it still rankles, especially when I recently spoke to someone who said how much she had enjoyed her Grand Canyon helicopter ride, a real highlight!!!
Having to get to Manly by bus, due to a ferry strike - the ferry there through Sydney Harbour, and past the Opera House is a Sydney highlight.

Worst accommodation

Poinsettia Motel, Cairns Australia - truly horrible place, yukky ancient looking room with geriatric pointless air con, permanently-on-low-and-nothing-else fan, bathroom window that didn't shut so all the hot humid air came in from outside...they never emptied my bin once in 3 days, and wouldn't let me store my luggage there on my final day. Oh, did I mention, POINSETTIA MOTEL CAIRNS

Okid Cottage, Johor Bahru Malaysia - Johor Bahru is a dull place. Staying in a business suburb 10km from town is torture...the highlight of my stay there was watching a giant game of snakes and ladders in the shopping mall!

Least favourite places

No places were without their good points, and I managed to miss out NZ's Palmerston North (which John Cleese had a good go at -"If you wish to kill yourself but lack the courage to, I think a visit to Palmerston North will do the trick"!) and drove through Hamilton (was everyone at Tim and April's wedding from Hamilton?)

Los Angeles - too many scary people, even when you're in the nice areas (Santa Monica and Venice are attractive coastal suburbs) to feel totally comfortable...

Canberra - Australia's pointless capital. In the middle of nowhere and ridiculously laid out, so that it takes forever to cross from one side to the other. A few good museums, so I'd get the contents moved to Sydney or Melbourne before flattening the city and returning the land to pasture!

Johor Bahru, Malaysia - deeply dull, don't stay here when Singapore is short distance away across the causeway!

Phnom Penh - just a bit horrible really, the dirt, noise, nutty motorbikes, beggars...and it floods everywhere when it rains. Like Bangkok, but worse...

And finally...

Coming Home!!!

Coming back after such a trip is horrible, especially landing at Luton Airport! I think, like Sun UV exposure, it would be have been better if I built up my Chav exposure gradually rather than having such a strong exposure on my first day

Saturday, July 15, 2006

Olympian feats...then Back to Reality

Hello again
Where was I? Ah yes in Lucerne (Luzern) Switzerland.

Many places have a funicular or cable car to take you up to the top of a mountain, where you get a nice view. Lucerne has several mountains you can visit, and more than one way to get up too! I chose Mount Pilatus, as you can go up and down by two methods.

To go up, a short trolleybus ride took me to the cablecar station, where I got on my 'gondola'. I don't have a great head for heights, but was fine. As long as we stayed moving, that is. When the system stops, the gondolas do sway about in a slightly alarming manner! You do get a grand view of the countryside, and can hear the jangle of the cowbells (yes, their cows do genuinely wear them).
http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mfconway@btinternet.com/detail?.dir=db7ere2&.dnm=5fadre2.jpg&.src=ph
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Two thirds of the way up, you change onto a conventional cable car for the journey to the summit. Which we couldn't see, as it was covered in thick cloud, which at least solved any vertigo issues!
http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mfconway@btinternet.com/detail?.dir=db7ere2&.dnm=ab8fre2.jpg&.src=ph
http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mfconway@btinternet.com/detail?.dir=db7ere2&.dnm=9ec7re2.jpg&.src=ph

On reaching the summit, it was covered in thick cloud, thunder was rumbling all around us, steady rain was falling and a biting gale was blowing around.
http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mfconway@btinternet.com/detail?.dir=db7ere2&.dnm=c904re2.jpg&.src=ph

Then suddenly the cloud cover lifted. It was still freezing and wet, but at least we could enjoy the view.
http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mfconway@btinternet.com/detail?.dir=db7ere2&.dnm=59d6re2.jpg&.src=ph

The journey down was by the world's steepest funicular (up to 48 degrees) quite an engineering marvel in it's time. On reaching the bottom, we transferred to a boat, for a relaxing journey back across the lake to Lucerne. A very pleasant journey, basking in the sun (!) and earwigging a strange conversation between some local teenage school children and some American students. The boat had a slightly pointless first class section upstairs unless you like solitude! Mount Pilatus was naturally bathed in sunshine by this point, you can just about see the cablecar on the right hand side of this picture, and note the complete absence of clouds!!!
http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mfconway@btinternet.com/detail?.dir=db7ere2&.dnm=470bre2.jpg&.src=ph

Moving on the next day, my next destination was Bern, capital of Switzerland. It was made capital, as a compromise candidate (Zurich was too German, Geneva too French), but is an attractive, if provincial medievel city in it's own right. It's name has bear origins, hence the bear pits around the city....not to everyone's taste perhaps...
http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mfconway@btinternet.com/detail?.dir=37a7re2&.dnm=2978re2.jpg&.src=ph

Bern has one of those typically swiss historical clocks, with twirling figures on the hour. It was pretty dull actually, not a patch on the one in Leicester Square! Of more interest was Einstein's former home, and an interesting statue depicting a giant feasting on children! If I ever get caught tucking into pan fried loin of child (with a nice Bearnaise sauce perhaps), I'm blaming the statue for leading me astray!
http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mfconway@btinternet.com/detail?.dir=37a7re2&.dnm=8258re2.jpg&.src=ph

Bern is surprisingly lively at night, though as both Germany and Italy had won quarter finals that day, there were plenty of people up for a celebration!

The next day, I headed for Lausanne, in the French sector of Switzerland, and close to Lake Geneva. Another attractive city centre, though disappointingly the Tour de l'Ale contained no beer!
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Lausanne is the headquarters for the Olympic movement, and the Olympic museum is a highlight. Sometimes I think that athletics undersells itself. For example, the photo below isn't me practising for a penalty shootout, but rather the height of the high jump world record! Staggering, as without going on tiptoes, I can't even touch the bar!
http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mfconway@btinternet.com/detail?.dir=fcc4re2&.dnm=3c45re2.jpg&.src=ph

Inspired by the Olympian feats described in the museum, I walked back to my hotel (beers in hand) to watch the England Portugal game. I had a wide choice of channels to watch the game on; apart from French and German TV, Swiss TV has channels in all their three main languages! Not that I exactly needed commentary to describe the penalty shootout...after the game, the streets outside were FULL of Portuguese, which didn't exactly cheer me up!

The next day I took the short journey to Geneva, the final destination on my long journey. Lots more celebrating Portuguese here too, and indeed, compared with the rest of Switzerland, lots more ethnic minorities, which is fitting seeing that Geneva has the European headquarters of the UN, and headquarters of the Red Cross. It has an attractive lakeside location, though the swarms of midges over the lake are a bit offputting!

Geneva has the world's tallest fountain, which to my surprise dated back to the 19th C - I had presumed it was a recent construction by the Ministry for Tourism! It also has the world's longest bench, which is as dull as it sounds...(though perfect for Chelsea to keep their reserves on I guess)
http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mfconway@btinternet.com/detail?.dir=3801re2&.dnm=1f49re2.jpg&.src=ph
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Of more interest was a visit to the UN. Security was understandably tight, but once inside, the guided tour was very interesting. The building has an interesting history, as previously the ill fated League of Nations was based here. One can argue about how much the UN has achieved over the years, but it wasn't for lack of trying.

My final museum was the Red Cross Museum, a very moving and informative museum showing the origin of the Red Cross, its aim and achivements. A highlight here is the Wall of Time, which shows for every year of the Red Cross's existence (up to almost the present) the wars and natural disasters that happened during that year, simultaneously depressing and educational.
http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mfconway@btinternet.com/detail?.dir=3801re2&.dnm=2fc6re2.jpg&.src=ph

In summary, I had a great time in Switzerland, the cities are attractive and clean (though with more graffiti than I had expected), the scenery is stunning (mountains and lakes), the trains as punctual and efficient as you'd expect, everyone speaks English and the food and drink is decent too (reflecting the different ethnic groups). And not too expensive too...well compared with London anyway!

So, it was with a heavy heart that I made my way to the airport the next morning, I had booked an early flight to get me home to my empty flat in good time. At the airport station, I saw a sign for a interesting sounding motor musuem, and regretted that I wouldn't have time to see it on this visit, which was probably tempting fate, as on checking in I found that due to a problem with the plane, the flight would be 4 hours late! The really annoying thing subsequently, was that the stupid musuem was actually shut for refurbishment!!!

After hanging around in town for a couple of hours, and doing my good deed for the day by carrying an old lady's bags to the airport, I finally boarded the Easyjet flight home (they had difficulties getting my halo though the door). The final irritation was that the plane disappeared into cloud somewhere over France, so I never got to see the coastline of England below me welcoming me home...the England football team were there to greet me though, it turns out they deliberately missed all those penalties so that they could meet me at the airport - can you think of a better explanation!

Luton Airport. A chavtastic way to come back to earth with a bump, and just as I got on the Thameslink (or whatever they're called this week) train, the heavens opened, with a massive thunderstorm (which apparently flooded and closed the airport soon after!). Still, it was dry by the time I got back to Golders Green, and I was soon back home in my flat, my RTW trip sadly at an end...

I will try and summarise the last six months. It's not easy though!

Mike

P.S. The biggest shock I've had so far on my return, is that during my absence the Golders Green McDonalds shut down! I'm fairly sure the two aren't linked in case you're wondering!

Tuesday, July 11, 2006

Fond(ue) memories of Switzerland

Evening again (I'm on a roll here!)

Switzerland is an interesting country. It's famously neutral, and indeed has only just joined the UN. It's not in the EU. It has 4 languages, and decides everything by referendum. It's famous for being very ordered and clean (Singapore is known as the Switzerland of Asia). Mountain railways, punctuality, chocolate, cuckoo clocks, cheese with holes in it, Roger Federer...

With these basic images in my mind, and sans guidebook I caught the train to Lugano (beloved of Intrust as you know, Maggie!). A nice journey becomes very scenic as we get near, the train crossing Lake Lugano. On arrival I take the short walk down to the town, where I find my accommodation (the Hotel Dante Lugano), a cracking hotel, one of the best I stayed in on the whole journey, and good value compared with some of the other Swiss places I stayed in. It's the little details that impress, the fruit bowl on reception, the choice of pillows, the frigobar in the room with a selection of free soft drinks, and in a really good location.

Enough of this 'Wish you were here' style hotel woffle! Lugano is a very attractive town, located by a lake and surrounded by mountains. It's in the Italian speaking zone, so all the food and wine is Italian, but being Swiss everything is clean and orderly. It's a nice place to walk around, but very quiet on a Sunday, as virtually every shop was shut!
http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mfconway@btinternet.com/detail?.dir=91d4re2&.dnm=4dd5re2.jpg&.src=ph

Annoyingly, I still couldn't buy an English language guidebook, and as there weren't any internet cafes either, couldn't look anything up there either. In Milan I used a map from the hotel (sponsored by La Tour sexy dance floor restaurant!) to find the tourist office. Here, I used another hotel map, which indicated a funicular going up one of the local mountains, Mount Bre. I took this to the top, where the view was nice but not brilliant (as you couldn't see in every direction), then hot footed it back down again to catch the England Ecuador game!
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The next day I caught the train to Zurich, a very scenic route across the Alps, using several pioneering tunnels and loops to climb and descend. Some classic chocolate box scenery, viewed from a very comfortable train!
http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mfconway@btinternet.com/detail?.dir=511ere2&.dnm=c3abre2.jpg&.src=ph

While on this journey, we crossed to the German speaking section, the most spoken language. Swiss German, as a spoken dialect, is significantly different to Classic German, and they use many French words such as merci for thank you (though pronounced more like the English mercy!) To prove the Swiss Germans are significantly different from the Germans, the Swiss LOST on a penalty shoot out this World Cup!

Zurich is Switzerland's largest city, and a global banking centre (and no I don't have an account there). Finding accommodation proved to be a headache, the only vacancy the tourist board had was in a divey place above a bar! I wonder if this shortage was football related, as Zurich isn't that far from southern Germany, and is also where the headquarters of FIFA is based...
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I spend two days here, wandering around. On the first afternoon, I finally manage to find a bookshop selling an English Lonely Planet, a real relief! No longer wandering blindly around, I see some of the sights and walk along the attractive lake shore.

That evening I watch Switzerland crash out of the World Cup in a rather splendid beerkeller...the food and beer were of somewhat better quality than the Swiss football team...

For a bit of rare culture on this trip the next day I visit the Art Gallery and the Le Curbusier pavillion (the last building he designed). At the former for completing a vistor's survey I am given a brochure on the Alberto Giacometti exhibition...in german! If anyone wants to translate for me...
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That evening I watch France beat Spain on a big screen at the railway station, the French have a lot more support than the Spanish.
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Moving on the next day, I take the short journey to Lucerne (Luzern). A very attractive town, with it's lake on one side, the river through the middle crossed by several historic bridges, medieval town centre and mountainous backdrop. Definitely my favourite Swiss town from this trip.

On arrival, as my room wasn't ready, I headed off for yet another highlight of Lucerne, the Transport museum, Switzerland's most popular museum and deservedly. The sort of place you can spend hours in, with it's vast collection of trains, planes, boats, cable cars, cars and bikes, and excellent audiovisual displays, in a selection of languages. In addition, there's a space exhibition, a tv studio, a giant photo of the country you can walk over and the brilliant Tourism flipper (albeit built by someone born in Romford!)
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The queue for the flight simulator was too long but I did have a go at the (very realistic) rail simulator, succesful driving an express train to Zurich! There was also a temporary exhibition of Sauber racing cars, seeing the difference between the a 2005 GP car (with it's strange aerodynamic addons) and older ones was interesting.

One final nice touch, on entry you are given a sticker to show you've paid. On leaving, they've provided somewhere to put your used sticker!
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Back in town, the most famous image of Lucerne is the 14th century Chapel bridge, which had to be rebuilt after a terrible fire a few years ago. These days, it tends to get very crowded, especially with Japanese Tour groups!
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The next day I popped to the laundrette first (it's all hedonistic pleasure on these trips), before heading up into the mountains again.

To be continued.....

Pasta la vista baby!

Evening again
Trawling back through my memory and notes, I return to my last day in Asia, 3 weeks ago! My flight out of Bangkok took off after midnight (00:30) so naturally a full meal was served. I was quite impressed with Thai Airways, especially after the glass of Thai brandy following dinner!

The next morning (Tuesday 20th) we arrived in Zurich, Switzerland, where I connected to another flight for the short trip to Venice. We boarded the plane, sat there for a while then were informed that the plane had a fault, so were all shuttled back to the terminal! An hour and a half later we boarded a replacement plane for the spectacular journey over the Alps to Venice. It was here that I thought about spending the last part of my journey in Switzerland, a country I'd hardly visited. The plane was quite stylish too, leaving you no doubt who owned it!
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In Venice that I met my parents again, as they were renting an apartment for the week. No offence to Dartford, but Venice was a slightly more exciting and stylish place for a family reunion! It's a place we've been to several times, so for once I wasn't rushing around, guidebook in hand, trying to find some obscure statue or get to a museum before it closed. Instead, I was able to relax and mooch around. Venice is a beautiful and special place, and a very relaxing place to amble about, if you avoid the crowds. It also has the most expensive internet cafes I came across on the whole trip!

Three general tips for an enjoyable trip to Venice would be :-
1) A lot of tourists spend all their time in or around St Mark's square, hence this area is very crowded, expensive and touristy. Moving away from here and the main 'drag' to the station, you'll lose the crowds and find areas where local Venetians still live, relax and shop.
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2) Don't follow a map too religiously, wandering around and getting lost is part of the joy, as you see so much more that way. It's not as if you can get properly lost anyway, the place is so small.
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3) Food and drink are expensive, but Olive bread fresh from the baker's, and the local draft wine (bring your own bottle for a refill!) are both excellent and good value. The local box wine is also surprisingly pleasant, and at 45p a litre from memory you can't afford not to!

On Saturday, my parents departed to the airport, while I made my way to the railway station, a beautiful journey in itself by water bus along the Grand Canal, especially as I had a lovely view at the front.
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Everything is transported my boat here, even McDonalds have to use them!
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My plan was to spend the next week and a half travelling by rail around Switzerland. Before getting there though, I caught a train to Milan, the fashion capital of Italy (they always treasure my advice). While not the most touristy city in Italy, there are things to see, and I could have spent longer than the one day I stayed. Milan is quite a pleasant place to wander around, you feel the prosperity compared with many Italian cities further south. The main highlight is visting the enormous gothic Il Duomo, the 3rd largest cathedral in the world, and exploring it's roof where you get a fine view, not only of Milan but also of the spires and buttresses.
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On a less pleasant note, seeing several posters featuring Italian footballers, including Gattuso and Cannivaro in their pants to advertise underwear was less attractive, though clearly they were lucky pants judging from the penalty shoot out!

I had hoped to buy a guidebook to Switzerland here, as I really was unsure where to go, and what highlights I had to see, but they only had ones in Italian...after a bit of checking on the internet, I decided on Lugano as my first destination and booked a hotel...

Thursday, July 06, 2006

Noodle Doodles

Safely back home now, Asia seems a long time ago, though I'm still on the Malaria tablets as a reminder!

As per NZ and Aus, I've made some notes to summarise my time in SE Asia (any typos will be because of tennis distractions!)

Things I liked

Value
A bit of a no brainer really, but Asia is very good value, coming back to Europe was a bit of a shock!

Food and Drink
I do like Asian food, Chinese and Thai were the main dishes I ate, though I also sampled Malay, Cambodian and Lao food too. I ate in all sorts of places, and enjoyed nearly everything I sampled. Also, no serious intestinal problems either (years of abusing my guts help here!)
The local fruits are tempting too. Starfruit, Lychees, Rambutans, Mangos, Pineapple, and beautifully fresh too!
Beer is very cheap too, and many of the local brews are decent and very good value. Further, they come in decent sized bottles too (none of the silly stubbies). Malaysia doesn't have any indigenous brews, but brews the excellent 8% FES Guinness instead...

Traveller Infrastructure
Plenty of English speaking people, plentiful accommodation of all types, it's easy to travel around

Air Asia
Asia's largest low cost airline. I ended up using them several times, and found them a very good way of getting around. They're very good value, and most of the passengers are locals.

Off season travel
Cheap and plentiful accommodation (no real need to book ahead) and less crowded tourist sites, so you feel more of a traveller than part of some great tourist wave

Geylang Singapore
The seedy side of Singapore. For those who think Singapore is all shopping malls and squeaky clean streets, Geylang is a surprise to the system. It's lively and seedy (it's where Singapore's massage parlours and 'ladies of the night' are based) and as a result makes a nice contrast to the ruthless efficiency of the rest of Singapore.

Kuching, Malaysian Sarawak in Borneo
One of my favourite Asian Cities, with a nice mix of Colonial and Chinese past, and moderm infrastructure.
It's a fine gateway to the jungles of Borneo, with their Iban Longhouses and Orangutans
An attractive and pedestrian friendly 1km riverside terrace linking the old town and the modern area
The massive rooftop food court with it's stalls serving excellent fish
The Harbourview hotel, a fine location, and great value (fine comfort for £18 a night)
The Cat museum, one of the rare offbeat museums in Asia

Borneo long boats
A great way to travel, you feel like a real explorer!

Gunung Mulu National Park Sarawak
Gigantic caves full of stunning formations and millions of bats, accommodation in the middle of the jungle, incessant jungle noises...

Death railway, Kanchanaburi Thailand
The emotion of the cemetries and the terrible history, the lovely scenery, the joy of the journey there with the clattering train and it's open windows allowing full absorption of the sights and smells of the countryside

Laos
The gentle people, quiet traffic, slow way of life, a nice antidote to the urban madness of many SE Asian cities.

Elephant Art Chiang Mai
Touristy, undoubtably. Spellbinding, Yes!!!

Angkor Temples Cambodia
Staggering temple complexes, 800-1000 years old, a real highlight of any SE Asian trip. A guide is essential for deeper understanding, but I was glad I also walked around by myself, as you need time to absorb the scenery and atmosphere away from the crowds.

Cambodian Tuk Tuks
Basically motorbikes with detachable carriages behind them. A great way to see the world, more comfortable and quieter than the Thai ones, and with full weather protection for the tropical downpours!

Religion
After NZ and Aus, it was a good cultural contrast to spend time in a region where religion plays a major part in people's life, whether Buddhism, Islam or Animism. (Kiwis worshipping the All Blacks isn't the same!)

Communications
Plenty of internet cafes, decent mobile signals virtually everywhere, the modern day traveller is rarely out of touch!

Things I didn't like

SE Asia as a pedestrian
Many of the cities are deeply unpleasant for pedestrians, the terrible traffic and pollution, the blocked or non existant pavements, the open drains in Malaysia waiting to swallow you up. There seems to be a problem with many of the cities going from bicycles to cars and motorbikes yet still expecting pedestrians to walk in the road. Singapore shows how it should be done, with decent pavements and pedestrian crossings where the traffic can be relied on to stop!

Bangkok
Crowded, dirty and polluted, terrible traffic, not a pleasant city to travel around, there are elevated railways and a metro, but they don't go into the very centre where you want to go!

Motorbikes
The bain of my life. In many cities (e.g. Georgetown, Phnom Penh) they make crossing the road a nightmare, as they disregard traffic laws, going through red lights and travelling the wrong way down roads...I had fantasies of being a traffic policeman. booking and arresting motorbike riders and throwing their machines into the river!

Off season travel
There are downsides as well as advantages. The heat was terrible, and when it rained it was torrential! It was often very hard to get on tours (such as to the Longhouses) as they need a minimum number of people, so you end up hanging around waiting for the numbers to arrive. Finally, the lack of tourists was a bit embarrassing, the empty restaurants, tourist markets and shows making you feel a bit uncomfortable.

Backpacker areas
Parts of Bangkok and Chiang Mai are excessively dominated by backpackers, you lose the essential culture of the country. There was something irritating about the long term travel bums you find there too, white men with dreadlocks bring out the Grumpy Old Man in me!

Buddha Overload
I guess you can have too much of a good thing...but you can only see so many Buddhas, wherever reclining, sitting ot whatever before the enthusiam starts waning. The desire to have the largest Buddha is a bit childish too...

Poor Safety
Manic bus drivers, lack of seat belts in vehicles, overloaded boats, safety standards are not what they are in the West, unsurprisingly

It probably should be pointed out that none of the above applies to Singapore, which doesn't have the excitement perhaps of the rest of Asia, but also doesn't have the negatives either...

A few Asian asides

Malaria
Many parts of SE Asia are Malarial, but it's not always clear cut whether to take the tablets or not, as it's generally regions of countries that are risky, rather than countries as a whole. The internet is a good source of information on which regions are risky, and what tablets to take. I ended up taking a calculated risk in not taking tablets in Borneo, as I knew I would need to take tablets later on in Indochina, and didn't want the courses of tablets overlapping.

Colonialiam and communism
All the countries I visited, apart from Thailand, were former Western colonies. After World War II when the Japanese invaded them with embarrassing ease, one wonders of the arrogance of the western powers, that they could immediately resume control after the war as if nothing had happened. Maybe if the independence handover had been quicker and more realistic, the tragedies of the various Indochina wars and subsequent communist takeover could have been avoided. Thailand was affected too, the vast number of American troops based there definitely changing the culture of the country. It is worth noting that Malaysia had it's communist insurgency too, but this was defeated as the majority Malays fought with the Britain and it's allies against the communists.

Airport Control Towers
When Kuala Lumpur opened it's new airport a few years ago, it proudly boasted the world's tallest Control tower. Bangkok is about to open a new airport, which will have an even taller Control tower. Does anyone outside SE Asia actually care about the height of control towers!?!

Pale skin
Especially in Indochina, pale skinned girls are popular. The guide showing me around Angkor Wat mentioned that her parents were worried about her taking the job, as it meant her spending all her time outside, getting a tan and thus not finding a husband! You see girls riding bicycles or motorbikes with an parasol in one hand. Skin cancer would be non existent if other countries had the same attitude...

And finally...
SE Asia is a great place to travel. It's good to keep your travel plans as open as possible, and go with the flow. A pan country guidebook is useful in this respect, as it enables you to window shop places you might otherwise have passed. My travel plans changed completely from what I had originally planned, and my favourite countries Malysian Borneo and Laos weren't in my original plans at all!

Friday, June 30, 2006

Europe by Train

Greeting again, from Bern capital of Switzerland!

Just a quick email update of my progress, as I've lots to fit in on my last few days of travel, trying to see as much as possible of this beautiful country, plus watching the tennis and football! Furthermore, internet cafes here aren't very helpful, a lot of them shut in the evening when you want to use them! Don't worry though, the usual service will resume when I'm safely back home (I've still got plenty to talk about including some thoughts on Asia I jotted down while waiting for my food) and it'll give me something to do during Wimbledon rain breaks. So you'll have to press Delete at least 3 more times (unless you've got my emails defaulting to your junk mail folder which is what I'd do!)

From Bangkok I flew to Venice via Zurich, and while waiting there I decided to spend the last week or so of my travels in Switzerland. A nice contrast with Asia. So, after a relaxing few days with my parents in Venice, my path has taken me (using the excellent rail network)
Venice - Milan - Lugano - Zurich - Luzern (Lucerne) - Bern

From here, tomorrow I travel to Lausanne, then the next day Geneva for 2 days then home next Tuesday 4th!

The stylish way to return home would be the Orient Express, but (apart from the cost) I doubt they'd let me on in my clothes! Taking the TGV train to Paris then the Eurostar would have been nice, but would have returned me to London in time for the evening rush hour, and I fancied a quieter introduction than that! And not so handy when your fridge is completely empty.

So, sparing no expense, I've booked an Easyjet flight to Luton airport! Glamour to the end...

In the words of Baddiel and Skinner...

He's coming home,
He's coming home,
He's coming,
Conway's coming home!

Monday, June 19, 2006

The wonders of Angkor and the horrors of Pol Pot

Hello again, the last time I'll be emailing you from Asia for a while. Tonight I fly back to Europe, and after a long flight and connection in Zurich, will be meeting my parents in Venice for a few days (they've hired a flat for a week). Indeed, I have 2 weeks left of my trip, I'm aiming to be back on the 3rd July, a nice round 6 months since I left London, and Red Ken is still pestering me to firm up the date so he can organise the open top bus parade! The Red Arrows apparently need 48 hours notice too.

A week ago I set off for Cambodia, flying into Siem Riep. I got the visa at the airport without too much difficulty, it costs $20 cash, a fact which is well publicised, so the fact that 4 Americans didn't have any of their own currency on them did raise a chuckle! Cambodia runs on $US, but for everything less than 1$, reverts back to their currency the Riel. 1$ = 4000 Riel, so something costing $3.20 actually costs $3 and 800 Riel! ATMs have just arrived, they dispense $.

I quickly found Cambodia very tiring, simply from the number of times you have to turn down motorbike taxis and tuk tuks. When you've been asked for the 50th time that day, you give up on politeness. I've also been asked "Do you want a lady sir?", I think that meant a massage, though aren't entirely sure...

Siem Riep is the gateway for the temples of Angkor, some of the most amazing historial structures on earth, built between the 8th and 13th century. That afternoon I took a tuk tuk to see the two most significant Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom. It is difficult to put into words the significance of these structures, I've taken lots of photos, but their jumbled up, as I paid more than one visit. It was quite nice just wandering around, without necessarily being too worried about facts and detail - the next day I hired a guide to get the background to these and several other temples - as this way you can appreciate them more, their size and detailed carving.

Angkor Wat (12th C) the largest religious monument in the world
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The last photo is a model, it shows the layout very well, and was made by hand.

Angkor Thom - Bayon (12-13th C)
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The last picture is my moment of passion!

Parts of Tomb Raider was filmed at Angkor, apparently the location below (at Ta Phrom) is one that Angelina used...
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Several of the temples have been left partially overgrown and derilict, with massive trees growing out of walls, and rubble everywhere, giving a very romantic feeling - sometimes buildings can be over restored.

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The last photo is from Preah Khan, a very derilict temple, where you wonder how any of the walls or roofs stay up!

Cambodian Tuk Tuks are different from the Thai ones, in that they are a separate carriage pulled by a normal motorbike, which can be disconnected. They are quieter and more comfortable, and some, like the one I used, had roll down canvas screens to keep you dry when it rained! Taking one through the countryside to distant temples was very pleasant, lots of fresh air and lots to see!
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A favourite dish is amok, a coconut milk based curry, often served in a coconut shell. Delicious!
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A disadvantage of being here in the off(wet) season, apart from the daily torrential rain storms, is that many activites shut down, for example none of the traditional music and dance shows were running. Instead I retired to my (empty) Guest House (built in traditional style, on stilts) to watch the World Cup! The best place to buy beers was the petrol station, the only place to have proper fridge cabinets! Cambodian WC coverage was very annoying, as they ran adverts during the games!

Leaving Siem Riep, I flew to Phnom Penh, Cambodia's capital. At the airport, I noticed a plane owned by "PMT Airlines". I'd be careful of bothering the air hostesses...
"Can I have another glass of water?"
"LEAVE ME ALONE, I'M HAVING A BAD DAY!!!!"
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Phnon Penh is, frankly a bit of a dump. Manic traffic, with motorbikes going in all directions, the wrong way down streets and through red lights, lots of rubbish everywhere, beggars and incessant motorbike taxis touting for business. When it rains the roads quickly flood - drains are very inadequate, and many of the roads out of the centre quickly become mud baths.
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It's also very annoying that the wide pavements laid out in colonial days are now used for parking cars. Being forced into the traffic because some Land Cruiser or Mercedes is completely blocking the pavement is very irritating. It is also a sign of inequalities in the post communist society, where a small number are doing suspiciously well, while a lot of the people aren't getting their fair share (similar to Russia)

If that last comment sounded a bit lefty, I will redress the balance by also saying that I think the people are a bit lazy too! I've never seen so many hammocks as in Phnom Penh. Traditionally, they start early, have a long (and early) lunch break, then back again for the afternoon. So for example, the hours for the Royal Palace are
Morning 7.30 - 11.00
Afternoon 2.00 - 5.00
Funnily enough, I don't normally fancy sightseeing at 7.30, but would actually quite like to visit at 11am! During the 3 hour lunch break...I'm sure the dead hand of communism is a factor here.

However...all this has to be taken in context. Cambodia suffered terribly in the 70s. First the Americans bombed large parts of the country trying to flush out Vietcong guerrillas (good old Nixon and Kissinger). This ended up with full scale fighting on Cambodian soil. The end result of this hopeless policy was the rise of the Khmer Rouge, and Pol Pot taking control of the country. Pol Pot was inspired by Mao and China's Cultural Revolution but was far far worse. His first act was to send the whole of Phnom Penh (a million) people and send them out onto the land. Intellectuals (or alleged intellectuals, or anyone really) and their families were tortured hideously and killed (intellectuals meaning doctors, teachers, educated people, people wearing glasses....) children were trained to spy on their parents and turn them in to the authorities, the whole country reduced to a basket case, the aim being to create a blindly obedient peasant economy. Nobody knows how many people were killed or died as a result of this madness, but in the 4 years it is estimated that 1.5 million people perished (a quarter of the population) before the Vietnamese drove Pot's people out in 1978 (they became a rebel group after that, albeit one supported by Thailand and the West?!?!)

It is painful seeing some of the remnants of the regime, the S21 interrogation centre, the memorial at Choeung Ek (The Killing Fields) with it's pile of skulls, just one of many similar killing fields. Indeed, it is a testament to humankind's hardiness, that the country could have recovered from such a trauma.
S21
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Choeung Ek
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On a lighter note, my hotel had very comprehensive satellite tv, so I could avoid Cambodian World Cup coverage, by watching another country's coverage. I plumped for the Chinese coverage (they had the flashiest graphics and sets, and the on screen clock and score) but could have watched on Vietnamese or Thai tv too! When you're organise your evenings around football and tennis, perhaps it's a sign that you need to move on...I'm back in Bangkok again, killing time really. My flight back to Europe leaves in less than 6 hours...

Mike