RTW with Mike

Saturday, June 03, 2006

Hello Thailand

Hello again
From Penang I flew to Bangkok. As well as Thailand, I intend to spend some time in Laos and Cambodia, though sadly due to time constraints not Vietnam, which will have to wait for another trip (I'l have to wait until I'm n-n-n-n-nineteen!)

The bus from Bangkok airport into town immediately sets the tone, as you quickly get stuck in terrible traffic jams, though being inside the air con bus, I at least didn't have to breathe in the fumes. Bangkok desperately needs better public transport and car control measures - it's interesting how new most of the cars are, they are a lot smarter than those of Malaysia, the difference being that a lot more of them are on borrowed money - during the last Asian currency crisis, most of the cars were returned to the dealers!

On a previous trip to Bangkok, the hotel my tour company put me in was ridiculously far out, a long way from everywhere, with only stray dogs for company, so I made sure I stayed in the centre, in Banglamphu, which is convenient for many of the sights, and quite lively. Indeed, it is a very backpackerish, the whole area is geared up to Western tourists and the long term 'traveller' drop out types...My hotel had a channel showing the French Open tennis, so far Roland Garros was easily won the battle over the local nightlife!

Thailand is famous for it's Buddhist temples, and Bangkok has many of the most famous.
The reclining Buddha at Wat Pho
http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mfconway@btinternet.com/detail?.dir=e275scd&.dnm=a0eescd.jpg&.src=ph
The Golden Buddha at Wat Traimit (this is 3m tall, weights 5.5 tons and is solid gold!)
http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mfconway@btinternet.com/detail?.dir=e275scd&.dnm=17b7scd.jpg&.src=ph
Wat Phra Kaeo at the Grand Palace
http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mfconway@btinternet.com/detail?.dir=e275scd&.dnm=40aascd.jpg&.src=ph
Dusit Maha Prasat at the Grand Palace
http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mfconway@btinternet.com/detail?.dir=e275scd&.dnm=507fscd.jpg&.src=ph
Wat Arun
http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mfconway@btinternet.com/detail?.dir=e275scd&.dnm=84f2scd.jpg&.src=ph

By contrast, the early 20th century Anantasamakhom Throne Hall is in Italian Renaissance architectural style, and with it's lavish decor and Italian marble, very impressive if unnecessarily extravagant perhaps...
http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mfconway@btinternet.com/detail?.dir=e275scd&.dnm=5ce3scd.jpg&.src=ph

The National Museum is very informative on the country's past (lots of wars against Burma) and the history of the Royal family, though somewhat vague on the turbulent 20th century, the period when democracy came in, then went out, then came back...It also had an exhibition of the King's paintings. He painted them in his younger days (a long time ago), and I was pleasantly surprised, as they were rather good. Many of them were of the Queen, an attractive lady...

To get around Bangkok, I generally walked, annoyingly the Metro and Skytrain still haven't reached the centre. You see a lot this way, but it's not pleasant, the heat, the traffic, the terrible pollution...luckily there's always plenty of places where you can buy a drink, and cold Milo includes a free England football player card, with a hologrammatic image showing 3 players! A picture of Gary Neville, just what I always wanted...

I was quite glad to get out of Bangkok, as I took the train to Kanchanaburi for a couple of days, a 3 hour journey. The train was 3rd class, with wooden seats, but had fully adjustable air conditioning, i.e. opening windows! As these open right down, you get a nice breeze and an unrestricted view of the sights (and smells) outside. Perfect for taking photos as well.
http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mfconway@btinternet.com/detail?.dir=4d5bscd&.dnm=1168scd.jpg&.src=ph

Kanchanaburi though a pleasant place now (ahhh fresh air) has a terrible history, as it is here that the base for the construction of the Death railway was located. This was built during WWII by Allied POWs and local slave labour, as the Japanese wanted a railway to link Thailand and Burma, and took a terrible toll. In appalling conditions, 16000 POWs and an estimated 100000 Asians died. People died because of sickness, malnutrition and exhaustion, with terrible beatings and torture inflicted on them. The attached has more info.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Death_Railway

Walking around the Allied cemetry in Kachanaburi is a desperately moving experience, the terrible waste of young life, and the horrible, painful deaths they must have endured. The attached has an explanation of the Japanese mentality at the time.
http://www.scottmurray.com/bridge.htm
http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mfconway@btinternet.com/detail?.dir=4d5bscd&.dnm=4c8fscd.jpg&.src=ph

Taking the Death railway out of Kanchanaburi, you soon pass over the famous "Bridge over the River Kwai" (it's doesn't actually go over the River Kwai), which is now a major tourist sight. When trains aren't passing over, the bridge is filled with tourists, photographing each other on it.
http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mfconway@btinternet.com/detail?.dir=4d5bscd&.dnm=e86ascd.jpg&.src=ph
http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mfconway@btinternet.com/detail?.dir=4d5bscd&.dnm=e2fdscd.jpg&.src=ph
The train wasn't that busy for much of the journey, but filled up for the 'highlight' of the trip, as people piled out of tour buses to ride over the infamous Wang Po viaduct
http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mfconway@btinternet.com/detail?.dir=4d5bscd&.dnm=f20cscd.jpg&.src=ph
http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mfconway@btinternet.com/detail?.dir=4d5bscd&.dnm=b68escd.jpg&.src=ph

Trains now only run over part of the original railway, walking along some disused rail brought a lump to the throat when one visualised the events of 60 years ago
http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mfconway@btinternet.com/detail?.dir=4d5bscd&.dnm=517dscd.jpg&.src=ph

On a lighter note, the World War II museum in Kachanaburi has a curious selection of exhibits, and a strange collection of buildings. In one building, the ground floor shows photographs of Thai soliders, some preparing for Vietnam, yet in the room immediately above is a giant mural of 30 Miss Thailands! Being a keen art lover, I gave this significant work appropriate time...my favourite was 1964's, who incidentally went on to become Miss Universe that year
http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mfconway@btinternet.com/detail?.dir=4d5bscd&.dnm=44d8scd.jpg&.src=ph

Returning to the sombre them of much of this email, my thoughts go out to the people of Yogyakarta, after the terrible earthquake there. When planning my initial itinerary for this trip, I had planned to go there (it's a major Indonesian cultural centre). My thoughts also go out to the Australian troops trying to sort out the mess in East Timor. A couple of months ago I met an English guy who was about to fly there on holiday - he likes adventurous travel, and yes there's a Lonely Planet to East Timor. Myself, I'm back in Bangkok, and off to Laos next, so I've started on the Malaria tablets. Handily I was able to buy them in the local branch of Boots (a bit more trustworthy than some of the dodgy backstreet stores) - yes they're out here, though I don't think they accept Advantage Cards!

Mike

0 Comments:

Post a Comment

<< Home